When I Went: September 2012
Was That the Best Time of Year to Go? Spring and fall are the best times to visit. The weather’s best during this season, especially since summers are hot and humid, and winters are cold and wet. Polo season is in spring (starting in October), and the world tango competition is held in late summer (August).
Why I Went There: I have not been to Buenos Aires, much less to South America. From what I read, it was the best city to immerse myself; firstly, as a single female traveler and secondly, as someone who has traveled within much of Western Europe. The city is very much like Europe in many ways, and the people themselves have plenty of Italian and Spanish customs. However, the Portenos (people who live in Buenos Aires) are quite the characters in their own unique ways.
You Won’t Want to Miss: Buenos Aires is very much a melting pot of a city, with plenty of sights to see and experience. However, for a first-timer my suggestions will include those attractions and activities synonymous with the capital city and, to an extent, with the country of Argentina. When in Buenos Aires, you ought to do something involving politics, tango, and football. To begin with, walk down Avenida de Mayo beginning at Plaza del Congreso and ending at Plaza de Mayo. This mile-long stretch contains about 150 years of Argentinean history. The iconic dome of
The National Congress sits on one end, and the infamous
Casa Rosadasits on the other. In between, you will pass beautiful art deco buildings, Avenida 9 de Julio, the country’s widest and busiest avenue, and the oldest and once political and social hub that is
Café Tortoni. You will also pass the
Cathedral de Buenos Aires where General San Martin, whose claim to fame was helping the country liberate itself from Spain, is buried. Next, get lost in the area of San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood in the city of Buenos Aires. This part of town hosts a huge antiques fair every Sunday and is a great place to watch locals perform tango outdoors. San Telmo is likely where you will end up taking tango lessons within the city.
We Are Tango offers a show and a lesson that is relatively inexpensive. It is held at
Hotel Bolivar and was just what I expected a tango show to be: intimate and sensual. And because the audience is small, the lessons are more personal. Adjacent to San Telmo is the infamous La Boca, a part of the city that has been neglected over the years, but remains on a tourist’s must-do list because of a couple of attractions. First is
Caminito, the street lined with colorful houses, where Italian immigrants first settled. Second is the stadium of the revered
Boca Juniors football club. It was the home club of Argentina’s most famous footballer, Diego Maradona. Across town sits Boca’s fiercest rival,
River Plate football club. A match between these two teams can be chaotic to say the least, but a scene to experience nonetheless. Both stadiums offer museum-like tours. If time permits, head into Recoleta, the city’s cultural center. It is home to a cemetery that can pass as an outdoor sculpture show and is where the beloved Eva Perón is buried, as well as the
Museo Nacional Bellas Artes.
Eat Here: If you want to try regional Argentinean cuisine, seek out
La Querencia in Recoleta. This cash-only joint is popular with the locals. Their empanadas are probably the best ones I tasted in the city, and their locra (beef stew with beans) just had the right balance of flavors. For desserts, head to any
Havanna branch and get yourself an
alfajor. It a biscuit-like substance often layered with
dulce de leche and dipped in chocolate. If you fancy ice cream, try
Freddo. Argentinean ice cream is comparable to Italian gelato, and this Italian-run “heladeria” lives up to the reputation.
Play Here: In Argentina, the two most popular sports are football and polo. For the former, catch a match by either Boca Juniors or River Plate. They are considered to be Argentina’s top football clubs. For polo, look into
Puesto Viejo. It is an estancia and polo club approximately 75 kilometers southwest of Buenos Aires that offers polo days for locals and tourists alike. Polo days include transportation to and from Buenos Aires, a lesson with a professional polo player, a match (if you go on certain days), and an asado luncheon served at the hotel. The price is $150 with a minimum of two people per lesson.
If I Went Again: My trip went relatively smoothly, and I was able to experience what I wanted to experience; although if there was one thing I could change, I would definitely buy more alfajores to take home.
How Did You Get There From Dallas? There is a direct flight daily from DFW airport to Buenos Aires via American Airlines. The main international airport is Ezeiza (code: EZE), and it is 37 kilometers southwest of the city. The easiest way to get from EZE to the city of Buenos Aires is to take the Manuel Tienda Leon bus service. It will bring you to their main station on Avenida del Libertador (just across from the Torre Monumental). The cost is 70 pesos, but for an additional 15, you can have a direct hotel transfer.
Other Tips For Fellow Travelers: Take the time to enjoy the city and mingle with the people. Go on a couple of walking tours, and experience all aspects of it. There is a huge disparity between the classes, and understanding the roots of why and how that occurred makes you appreciate the city, and its people, more.
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